![]() So you may just want to leave it alone, and let the buyer worry about it. I'd bet the cost of a good professional crack repair and refinish will exceed the hit you will take in value selling it as is. Actually, those holes should be near invisible slits cut with a razor knife, and again, the screwdriver shank is lubricated so that after the pad is installed and cleaned, the slits would not be visible. You should use a well fitting round shank screwdriver, and lubricate the shank with liquid soap so you don't tear or damage those holes any worse than they are. All of the few pads I have removed have used Phillips Head wood screws. Down at the bottom of those two small holes you describe are the screws securing it to the stock. Your recoil pad is already misshapen and deteriorating so I would not be overly concerned about damaging it. I then turned a walnut dowel to closely fit the large hole, and epoxied that in place for further reinforcement. It was a fairly easy repair after digging out the oxidized shot, blowing the dust and debris out of the crack, repairing with Titebond II wood glue, and clamping with surgical rubber tubing. And when I removed the buttplate, I was not surprised to find that a rather large hole had been packed with lead shot that had swelled and oxidized heavily, causing the stock to develop a longitudinal split. I bought it, suspecting that someone had packed lead into a hole in the butt. Or it could have been cracked in a fall or by dropping the gun.īut I once purchased a Lefever G Grade that had a similar crack, and the buttplate was also slightly warped outward. Your crack may simply be a stress crack caused by the maker using a piece of walnut that wasn't fully seasoned. Many guns have had large holes bored into the butt to either remove wood to reduce weight, or to add weight to change the balance of the gun. I would be interested in removing the recoil pad, not to see how far the crack goes, but to perhaps see what caused it. ![]()
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